We chatted to Leigh Bellingan, part of the hospitality team at White Desert, Antarctica’s pioneering luxury tourism operator, for some insight into what it’s like working and making coffee for the summer season on the southern tip of the globe
Pictures by and interview with Leigh Bellingan
First question! Is coffee a priority for both guests and Team members? And we assume flasks are a necessity? :) And does the coffee taste different? What water are you using?
Nothing could spark a riot as quickly as running out of coffee down there!
We work very long hours at sub-zero temperatures. Many of the team spend hours working outside in the cold and the icy winds, whilst others work through the night in the machines to prepare the skiways and runways. Our large cargo delivery is often in the wee hours of the morning, and the team manually offloads a few tonnes in very exposed conditions. So the fuel of coffee is needed!
And yes, flasks are definitely a necessity!
Antarctica is a polar desert, so water is made by melting the snow, or in rare locations is collected from glacial run-off lakes so the water is extremely pure. Black coffee tastes the same I would say, but we have upgraded to long-life milk, from powdered milk (which can be pretty grim) - so if you take milk in your coffee it's a little different.
People bring all kinds of weird and wonderful coffee contraptions - one of the guys brought a version of an AeroPress their friend had made to use when in a workshop - and you use an electric drill to operate it.
My favourite thing is seeing how all the different nationalities prepare and share their coffee in different ways. Creature comforts are few and far between down there, so someone making you a coffee is like an Antarctic love language!
How long is the tourist season in Antarctica and is the number of people restricted? Are there lots of tour operators?
The tourist season is very short – it runs in the Antarctic summer months only, from mid-November to early February when there is 24 hours of daylight. Tourism in Antarctica is self-governing led by IAATO, of which White Desert is a member. All of White Desert’s operations are permitted through the British Government, the company needs to undergo yearly environmental impact assessments which include limiting how many tourists are allowed per season. There are very few deep field (interior or land based) tour operators as the logistics are incredibly complex, time-consuming to set up and expensive.
What does accommodation look like for travellers to Antarctica?
As staff we usually live in polar dome tents, they are surprisingly cozy! Although we are testing out small pods which do better in the katabatic winds. The guests stay in custom-made polar pods which are heated, some with floor to ceiling windows across the Antarctic landscape and they all have ensuite toilets and wash rooms.
Does the hospitality team stay for the whole season or does it work on a kind of rotation?
It works on a half season rotation, although we do have operational staff that are down there for the full season from set up to pack down, which is around 4months.
Do you get used the cold and the constant sunshine of an Antarctic Summer, or not so much?
Yes, you definitely get used to it!
The polar gear helps a lot with the cold, and also the fact that a lot of the work is very physical, so you're moving all the time. On the colder nights it does take a little bit of psyching yourself up to get changed into frozen pj's and slither into a freezing cold sleeping bag though!
The constant sunshine is very weird at first, but you also get used to it - my bestie gave me a molded sleep mask to cover my eyes - which really helps - or you just pull your beanie over your eyes. The one plus is that when you finish up a workday late, you can still head out for a hike or a toboggan at midnight.
Tell us about one of your favourite experiences during your time working in Antarctica.
It is so difficult to pick. Ice climbing, exploring ice tunnels & crevasses, rappelling off Nunataks - just the scale and expanse of the place is a mind boggling & humbling experience.
Mostly, it's the people I have met and worked with that are my favourite part - you form such a beautiful bond when you rely on each other so much.
ED’S NOTE:
If you’re interested in planning an adventure of a lifetime, find out all the information on White Desert here
